If you build it, people will come.

This became a reality for Merrill Culverhouse, a local resident who envisioned a nice dining spot in OPP. Teaming up with childhood friend and chef John Gibson, they created a restaurant called Wheelhouse. Today, it’s more than just a place to eat; it serves as a job provider and a community cornerstone.

Culverhouse had long dreamed of owning a restaurant since his college days. He found himself absorbed in his career as a pharmacist back in OPP, but attending town hall meetings sparked his ambition again. After hearing residents discuss improvements, he realized that having a restaurant could not only serve the local community but also attract visitors. This was back in 2017.

“I got tired of having to drive out of town to get anything more than fast food,” he shared. “Like most small towns, OPP has way too much fried food. It’s not exactly the healthiest choice. So, I thought, why not open a place that encourages people to come here instead?”

Interestingly, Culverhouse’s wife only agreed to support his dream if Gibson was part of it.

Now, Wheelhouse is a well-loved establishment offering coastal comfort foods, from juicy steaks to fresh Gulf seafood, burgers, pizza, and seasonal local produce, alongside creative cocktails.

Culverhouse describes Wheelhouse as “flip-flop casual,” stating that it’s a place where you can bring your best outfit or come in your most relaxed attire.

The clientele includes travelers journeying to and from the Gulf Coast, but mainly, they draw customers from a 40-mile radius encompassing Crenshaw, Covington, and Coffee Counties.

“We’ve had people tell us that when they come here, it doesn’t feel like OPP anymore,” he says. “They mention it reminds them of New Orleans.” He adds that beyond creating a unique ambiance, they aim to make customers feel at home and ensure they enjoy a good experience.

This welcoming atmosphere is found in thoughtfully renovated spaces that respect the building’s history.

Wheelhouse is situated in “The Donaldson Block,” which was once owned by prominent local businessman Me Donaldson. In 1923, construction started on the Donaldson Hotel, which now houses the restaurant. The place boasts several dining areas with beautiful vintage brick walls, including private rooms suitable for business lunches and lively patio spaces for special celebrations. It can accommodate 99 diners indoors and around 50 on the patio.

Local art adorns the walls and is available for purchase; when a piece sells, they contact the artist to deliver the payment. Additionally, there’s a well-stocked bar that, according to Culverhouse, was “new for OPP.” This full-service restaurant is committed to fresh cuisine, showcasing a blend of global influences and homemade favorites.

Gibson injects an eclectic flair into the menu, harmonizing traditional Southern fare with inspirations from California, the Pacific Rim, the Southwest, and even Europe. He is classically trained and has gained recognition as a chef, entrepreneur, and television persona, even competing in world food championships. His extensive culinary background enhances the restaurant’s offerings.

Wheelhouse’s menu evolves every six months, with seasonal items making an appearance. However, customers can always count on favorites like great steaks, fresh Gulf seafood, good burgers, and delicious pizza. In fact, Merrill noted that the pizzas have been especially popular.

Standouts include the cheese-selected Grill Angus Patty with a smoky mesquite flavor on sourdough, and the Southern Burger loaded with bacon, pimento cheese, and fried green tomatoes.

One of Culverhouse’s personal favorites is the Tri-Tip Apple Salad, which combines hickory smoked beef tips, crunchy Granny Smith apples, feta, and pickled onions, drizzled with white balsamic vinaigrette and served with grilled flatbread. “We have really good tacos—Billiar tacos and fish tacos,” he adds. Their lunch specials feature options like Nora shrimp and grits alongside smoked brisket grilled cheese.

“And the desserts? Simply fantastic,” Culverhouse continued. “We have an exquisite white chocolate bread pudding and a key lime pie using a Florida Keys recipe.”

As a pharmacist who owns Crenshaw Drug in nearby Leburn, opening a restaurant has been a new and enlightening experience for Culverhouse.

“It’s a different kind of chaos compared to pharmacy,” he reflects. “This is sometimes fast-paced and, honestly, quite foreign to me. I recall the night we opened, thinking, ‘I trust you.'” Culverhouse primarily operates behind the scenes but appreciates being involved with customers.

“I enjoy chatting with people,” he states. “My dad was quite the talker, and I guess I’ve inherited that. I recognize many regulars, but there are still folks I’ve never met before. There are lots of different tags in the parking lot.”

Choosing a name for the restaurant was a challenge for Culverhouse.

They landed on “Wheelhouse” to express their intent to positively impact the community. Railways were vital for OPP, and in rail terminology, a “wheelhouse” allows train cars to pivot and switch tracks. This reflects what both Culverhouse and Gibson were aiming to achieve—a new direction for the community, enhancing it as a place to work, live, and raise families.

“Wheelhouse is more than just a restaurant,” Culverhouse emphasizes. “Our main goal is to uplift the city and create jobs.” Many staff members have been with them since the beginning, even through the challenges of Covid.

“I’m from OPP and wanted this to be here,” he asserts. “This town truly needed jobs, and we’ve created 14 positions. People are able to support themselves now.”

His pride is evident in creating a space where the community can gather and enjoy life.

“We cater to our customers. There’s a Rotary Club meeting every Wednesday, and we host live music on the patio. It serves as an entertainment venue, albeit not frequently. But it’s a great place for people to come together.